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Sue Macpherson's avatar

Your very enjoyable article brought to mind the idea of gentlemanly ‘fair play’ in mountain climbing based on the ‘Corinthian spirit.’ Any reliance on scientific research and knowledge was viewed as underhand. Historically, true fair play meant climbing without bottled oxygen, excessive Sherpa support, or pre-fixed ropes (the "alpine style").

Dr Griffith Pugh, was scientific advisor to the first successful ascent of Everest in 1953.

The 40th anniversary celebration of this successful climb was at the Royal Geographical Society in 1993. Among the tributes, Dr Pugh’s name was not mentioned until Michael Ward, the expedition doctor, told the audience that the attempt on the summit would have failed, like all previous climbs, if it had not been for the application of scientific findings made by Dr Pugh. He was the ‘unsung hero’ of Everest.

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